Part 3: Intermediate Zipper Hack: How to Sew Exposed Zippers Into Bag Seams

This technique places the zipper directly into the structure of the bag, allowing the decorative tape to become part of the structure of the bag while still remaining visible. The result is a clean, modern design detail that looks polished and intentional.

This method works especially well with the Prince Charming Déjà Vu Tula Pink Zipper Collection, where the bold printed tape adds color and personality along the seam line of your project.

In this tutorial, I’ll walk through exactly how to do this using two of our most popular patterns:

• Casey Duffle Bag 

• Lauren Shoulder Bag 

Both patterns include step-out photos, which makes adapting this technique much easier if you’re trying it for the first time.

To make this easy to follow, this post is broken into sections so you can jump to what you need most:

• New to this technique? Start with the general step-by-step method

• Sewing the Casey or Lauren bag? Head straight to the pattern-specific instructions

• Looking for inspiration or tips? Don’t miss the project ideas and finishing tips throughout this blog

You’ll find both the core technique and detailed pattern adjustments, so you can apply exposed zippers to these bags—or confidently adapt the method to other patterns too!

Many bag patterns use straight seams to connect panels, pockets, or top openings.

Instead of hiding the zipper inside those seams, this technique allows the zipper tape to remain visible along the seam line. The zipper becomes a decorative design element while still functioning as part of the bag.

Sewing zippers into straight seams can:

• highlight decorative zipper tape

• create bold design lines in the bag structure

• add contrast between panels

• give the project a modern, custom appearance

When paired with the Prince Charming Déjà Vu Zipper Collection, this technique allows the printed tape to stand out while blending naturally into the construction of the bag.

Casey

The Casey duffle bag is an excellent project for this technique. Its wide top opening provides plenty of space for decorative zipper tape, making it easy to showcase the zipper as part of the bag’s design. Using a Prince Charming Déjà Vu zipper along the opening can add a bold accent that highlights the structure of the bag.

Myrna

The Myrna bag includes multiple zipper pockets, making it a natural candidate for decorative zipper tape. By applying zippers directly into straight seams, the zipper becomes a design feature while maintaining the clean structure of the bag.

Lauren

The Lauren satchel has polished lines and structured panels that work beautifully with seam-applied zippers. Incorporating decorative zipper tape into the seams can add subtle contrast while maintaining the refined look of the bag.

Zippy

The Zippy bag pattern is another excellent option, especially for sewists who enjoy smaller projects. Because the design already includes exterior zipper pockets, decorative zipper tape can easily become a standout detail.

Beginner Tote

The Beginner Tote from A Field Guide to Bag Making is a fantastic option for experimenting with seam-applied zippers. Because the tote features long, straight seams, decorative zipper tape can be used as a bold design detail that runs along the structure of the bag.

Tiffany

The Tiffany satchel is another beautiful option for seam-applied zippers. This design features a wide, structured opening that pairs perfectly with decorative zipper tape. Adding a printed zipper like those from the Prince Charming Déjà Vu collection allows the zipper to become a polished accent that complements the bag’s classic silhouette.

Basic Backpack

The Basic Backpack from Create with Cork Fabric (found on page 57) is another great project for this technique. The clean panel seams of the backpack provide ideal placement for decorative zipper tape. Incorporating a seam-applied zipper creates a modern design line while adding a pop of color to the bag.

In the steps below, we’ll follow the general method for sewing a zipper into a straight seam—but with a few key adjustments when working with the Casey and Lauren patterns.

Instead of inserting the zipper between fabric layers as written, you’ll complete the seam construction first, then apply the zipper to the right side of the fabric using basting tape and topstitching.

This small change is what allows the zipper tape to remain visible and become part of the design.

A few small adjustments can make this technique look especially polished.

Use consistent seam allowances

Even stitching ensures the zipper tape appears balanced along the seam.

Topstitch both sides of the zipper

This helps stabilize the seam and keeps the zipper tape lying flat.

Secure the zipper ends

Make sure the zipper extends slightly beyond the seam allowance so the ends are captured securely in the bag construction.

Choose bold zipper designs

Decorative zipper tape, like the Prince Charming Déjà Vu collection, creates a striking visual effect when used along bag seams.

The Tula Pink zipper collections for Sallie Tomato were designed specifically with bag makers in mind.

They feature:

• bold printed zipper tape

• durable nylon coils

• smooth-gliding zipper pulls

• vibrant colors that coordinate beautifully with Tula Pink fabrics

The Prince Charming Déjà Vu zipper collection is especially striking when used in seam applications because the printed tape runs continuously along the seam line, turning a functional element into a design feature.