Try These Open Ended Zipper Techniques!

There are a variety of techniques to accomplish beautifully finished open ended zippers in your handmade bag projects.

Open ended zipper installation is often used as a closure style on handbags, totes, and other styles of bags that call for a larger opening at the top of the bag for easy access.

Some of our customer favorites include open ended zippers, including the Mary, Miranda, Ruth and Aurora.

We will be covering a few options for what many refer to as a 90° zipper installation. The three versions we will walk through below are the No-Sew Method, the Butler Method, and the Stitch and Flip Method.

Watch as Kate takes you step by step through these zipper techniques!

No-Sew Method

This technique is demonstrated in most of our Sallie Tomato patterns. It requires minimal tools and is very approachable for any level of sewist. Recommended notions for this method are: a sewing clip, a lighter, and a pair of pliers.

Step 1: Begin with the zipper end open, then fold the zipper coil away from you, creating a 90° angle in the coil.

Step 2: Tuck the zipper end to the wrong side or underside of the zipper tape, creating a 45° angle in the zipper tape.

Step 3: Place a sewing clip along the fold edge to hold the layers together and provide a bit of a handle as you lightly melt the zipper end with a lighter.

Step 4: After a second or two, “clamp” the melted edge in place with a pliers as it cools. This creates a nicely finished edge that simulates basting.

Repeat the same process on the other side of the zipper. If you wish, you could sew near the melted edges for extra security.

Butler Method

Another helpful technique is the Butler Method. The Butler method creates a neat zipper end finish with just an easy fold in the zipper tape.

For this method, you will want to have your sewing machine ready and a couple sewing clips or pins.

Step 1: Bend the zipper coil at a 90° angle, allowing the tape to fold.

Step 2: Using your fingers, press the zipper tape toward the top of the zipper, a horizontal fold nesting next to the horizontal portion of the zipper coil, creating a 45° angle on the underside.

Step 3: Clip or pin in place and then stitch along the edge of the zipper tape to secure the zipper in place.

Remember to remove the pin before sewing over it to prevent damage to your machine. Repeat on the other side of the zipper, keeping the folded edges aligned at the top.

Stitch & Flip Method

The final technique we will be covering is the Stitch & Flip Method. This method is simple and straightforward. Required tools are your sewing machine and sewing clips.

Step 1: Begin by folding over the end of the zipper about 1/2” (1.2mm) or the width of the zipper tape down, with Right Sides Together.

Step 2: Stitch on both sides of the zipper tape at an angle from the zipper coil at the fold, out to the edge of the zipper tape at the raw end of the zipper.

Step 3: When complete, pull the zipper coil open and both sides of the zipper will have a perfect 90° angle.